Any surfer will tell you that it’s a jungle out there in the water.  It’s an incredibly dynamic environment, and you must be in constant command of yourself and your board as you navigate through rip currents, oncoming waves, other surfers, flotsam & jetsam and all the natural flora & fauna.

The more I reflect on my experience learning to surf, the more I think that the first lesson a surfer has to learn is to respect the ocean and everything else that’s out there in the water.  The ocean is far more powerful than any living thing and it’s foolish to think that you can overpower it, outsmart it, or outdo it in any way. 

Though it may seem like it at times, the ocean isn’t an evil monster that’s out to get you.  It abides by the basic laws of physics, so it’s fairly easy to pattern and even predict it’s behavior.  The key is to learn how to harness the ocean’s energy and move with it.  It may sound corny, but there’s a rhythm to it all.  Spending time in the water, paddling on your board, is the best way to familiarize yourself with the ocean’s behavior.  The more comfortable you are in the water, the more you’ll be able to focus on learning how to catch waves, instead of worrying about them catching you.

If you’re interested in learning to surf, prepare yourself for a long, humbling journey.  At times it can be so frustrating that you’ll want to quit.  Stick with it, though, and study everything that’s happening in the water.  As you start to get the hang of things, you’ll be rewarded.