Anyone who’s seen or read The Perfect Storm has heard of rogue waves, aka "freak waves", giant waves that form and break far out at sea.  These freakishly large waves can obliterate small ships and do serious damage, even sink, large ocean going vessels like oil tankers.  Until recently scientists understood little about what causes rogue waves to form, but thanks to a group of European researchers that is no longer the case.

Several European research institutions have partnered on a project called MaxWave, which has made substantial progress in understanding rogue waves.  They’ve actually been able to identify, measure, and track rogue waves with buoys, lasers and radar satellites.  They’ve determined that rogue waves form more frequently when strong winds blow against strong ocean currents and when different swells traveling in the same direction merge.  Makes sense.  

They say that at any point in time there are probably ten giant waves roaming the open ocean. Now that we have the ability to identify conditions that are ideal for the formation of giant waves, as well as the ability to identify and track the waves with satellite radar, one has to wonder when some crazy surfer is going to try and ride one of those suckers.

Check out The New York Times‘ recent article on the topic.  It’s got some cool pics & diagrams.

Thanks go to our Junior Brogue Wave Analyst, Stephen, for digging up this story for us.  Keep up the good work, bro.