"After spending two years in bed with Lyme disease, Steven Kotler had lost everything: his health, his job, his girl, and, he was beginning to suspect, his mind. Kotler, not a religious man, suddenly found himself drawn to the sport of surfing as if it were the cornerstone of a new faith."  Read entire review

I haven’t read this book (just the review), but it sounds really interesting.  The fact that the author looked to the waves and found a cure for his physical and mental illness is impressive.  His exploration of the science behind it all makes it that much more compelling to me.