Science of Surfing

Science Wire does a cool overview of the scientific aspects of surfing. Most of it will seem pretty basic if you’re already an accomplished surfer, but it’d be a good resource for any beginners out there. I like their step-by-step instructions on how to generate your own surf forecast. The section that covers the physics [...]

Rip currents

Rip currents are often misunderstood.   

Lesson #1: Respect

Any surfer will tell you that it’s a jungle out there in the water.  It’s an incredibly dynamic environment, and you must be in constant command of yourself and your board as you navigate through rip currents, oncoming waves, other surfers, flotsam & jetsam and all the natural flora & fauna. The more I reflect [...]